La Vida Guatemalteca

Good Friday and Maximon

2008-03-31T14:37:00.000-07:00

Who is Maximon? (pronounced- ma-shi-MO) .

Syncretism at its best! Mayan culture, religion and tradition and the catholic tradition and faith not only mix and blend, but play, battle and... well... chase one another on Good Friday in Santiago each year. Maximón is believed to be a form of the pre-Colombian Maya god Mam, blended with influences from Catholicism. He is represented as an effigy in Sanantonio de Atitlan, among other towns throughout the western Guatemalan highlands, where my parents and I spent Good Friday. He is often called San Simon, and serves as a Judas figure every Holy week when he is brought out and chased around the town, until he returns to a new home or hiding place for the next year.

Here men had gathered outside his shrine as others offered the traditional gifts of alcohol, cigarettes, and his favorite... cigars! Each village throughout the region has their own traditional style, dress, and colors. In the large markets throughout Guatemala you see all of the fabrics brought together, huipils (traditional shirts of women) made into purses and blankets, but you can always tell where some thing was made by the color and patterns.

After this ceremony of worship took place around noon, the Jesus was taken down and put into an ornate and flower laden coffin. Children and adults stood around the outskirts with candles, some as tall as they were, and looked on as men began processing out of the sanctuary with the coffin on their shoulders. Many wait years for the privilege of carrying the coffin, and pay money to do so. It has roots in practices of penitence.

The procession proceeds slowly, as they march forward 10 steps and then back 9, and it seemed just as they would reach the door, they would back all the way in again. We couldn't stay long enough to see how they made it down the narrow and steep stairs outside of the Cathedral. We were amazed to discover that the procession lasts all night long! They switch places, but the music, and processing through the streets, over the alfambras, lasts from 4 in the afternoon until about 6 the next morning!

We discovered that there is a much greater emphasis on Good Friday here than on Easter Sunday. A emphasis grown out of both Catholic belief and roots, as well as a culture that identifies with the story of the passion and suffering of Christ over and above that of the resurrection.

This group patiently waits for the procession to exit the sanctuary.

One of the three most prominent volcanoes of the lake, towers above the main square. In the photo below you can see that they have drawn out in detail ahead of time, what each block and each portion of each block will look like down to the exact design and colors. The "Alfambras" are an all day production, and a really incredible art form.
It was incredible to watch the time, energy and creativity put in to this work... a very communal offering to the festivities and traditions of this place.

These alfambras are all made of colored sawdust, and pave the way for the procession that will walk over it in the next 24 hours. Some alfambras include offerings of fruit, vegetables, grains, and other goods, making them a bit more controversial in a country that suffers from high rates of malnutrition. Some are intricately realistic pieces of art- amazing!

Padres en Guatemala...

2008-03-31T12:37:00.000-07:00

Mom and dad Dumler were here for Semana Santa! We had a great week exploring Guatemala and experienced the unique and festive ways the catholics celebrate Holy Week! (more on that in the next entry) Here we are in the ruins of Saint Francis in Antigua. The church is still a vibrant community of worship. We joined them for mass on Easter Sunday- el dia de la resurreccion.

We made it through the week paying the gringo tax of course, but with no major problems which was a relief. We had heard that crime is especially high in Antigua this time of year... and my mom had a close but extremely lucky call! We made it back to the house one night to discover a huge knife cut in her purse... but all the contents still inside!

We made our contribution to the Guatemalan economy this week! I am glad to be able to purchase wedding decorations and gifts here rather than in the U.S. (and these women were pleased as well).... but my poor parents had to help me get it all back to the States. :)

We did sit and relax... for a minute. Here they are enjoying a lazy afternoon at Casa Del Mundo.

We walked and walked the blocks of alfambras (the colorful carpets of sawdust or other materials that line the streets where the processions will walk) It's an amazing art! Hours upon hours are spent planning, preparing, and making the alfambras... and then the processors walk over them throughout the 12 hour processions that last all night on Good Friday. There is a much greater emphasis here on the passion of Christ than the resurrection. They play dismal and somber music throughout the town as they work on these bright and beautiful carpets- seemingly paradoxical.

Adventures in Transportation:

They were troopers! They bravely hopped on the Guatemalan city buses to get home their first day in Guatemala (something many Guatemalans won't do!), and willingly crammed into the back of a "Tuk-tuk" with me to navigate the cobblestone streets of Antigua at night.

We rode the public "lanches" around Lake Atitlan to get to and from Casa Del Mundo and Santiago where we spent Good Friday.

How could I forget about the Monkeys! These monkeys in a natural preserve were showing off and loving the attention. Spider monkeys can use their tale as an extra appendage as this one is doing- playfully swinging upside-down.

Day at the Beach

2008-03-31T12:18:00.000-07:00

Benjamine (the youngest son in the family I live with) is on the national skating team. The team does their marathon training on the highways by the beach, so I went with the family when they accompanied the team a few weeks ago. Here they are dodging traffic as we trailed them with the blinkers on... and who said skating isn't a dangerous sport?!
The whole team went to the beach afterward and I attempted to take a few team photos as they were pummeled by waves. The current and waves are really powerful on the Pacific Coast- not great for swimming or even surfing for that matter.

Here they are bracing for it!

That didn't seem to deter Maribel's grandmother who turned 75 that day! The whole family met us down at the beach and she jumped right it (and was almost swept away by the current!)

The black sand beaches were beautiful nonetheless. A wonderful change of view and pace from the City.

International Day for Women...

2008-03-16T18:00:00.000-07:00

Travis has promised a "skype" date soon to celebrate "his" international woman (me), but this celebration last Saturday was actually intended to celebrate all women world wide.
Cedepca hosted the celebration and the women gathered: from young to old, from indigenous to gringas like myself, from all economic brackets and denominations. It was also the international day of prayer so we combined the celebrations with awareness of women's rights, and the struggles that still exist in Guatemala, along with prayer for women in this country and around the world.
I was asked to lead a brief Bible study with a small group of women during the morning, and was awed by how open they were with their lives and stories. They shared powerful stories of not only empowerment as women, but empowerment through love... learning to forgive husbands who had left them, men who had robbed them... in order to live in love.I must admit that I had not been entirely looking forward to the event, but it ended up lifting my spirit and reminding me of the power of the love of God to remind women of the value they have, and how to love others who do not honor or recognize that value. It was fun!

death unsantitized...

2008-03-09T20:21:00.000-07:00

The public cemetery in Guatemala City makes one alive to all their senses... the smell is strong. The rows of stacked tombs, like uniquely decorated cabinets draw the eye upward and over names, dates and flowers to the buzzards circling above. Silence permeates with the occasional shuffle of feet, visitors to leave flowers for loved ones, or the low murmur of talking and crying that surround a burial site. The uncle of Marible, the mom in my family here, died this past week. I was not only touched by the loss of this man in their family, but also a bit fascinated by the way death is approached and dealt with in this culture. They had a vigil with the body in the home for visitors to come by and say goodbyes, pray and bless him for a full day after the death. Then the next day, the whole community accompanied the family to the grave site where they placed the body in grave, filled in the covering with brick and mortar and said goodbyes. Cemeteries are always striking to me for this reason- the living among the dead- looking on knowing we will all inevitably accompany them, join them in their rest, knowing that they have experienced the beyond, while we wait in wonder- but somehow in this setting with the smells, the sights, the sounds, it took on a new reality for me.

Buscalo...

2008-03-02T20:19:00.000-08:00

Talk about a public witness of faith! Coming back from my run in the park I ran into this Lenten procession winding though the streets and into the local Catholic church. I could not have looked more ridiculous or western in my white tennies and green spandex shorts, but there I was! carpe diem!

I was struck by a few things... the public nature of this worship in the streets, the verse above the door and the "alfambra" on the road, and the difficulty getting Jesus into the church. I wonder if the tendency of churches in the U.S. is not an opposite posture toward worship... we worship in the churches, and hold Jesus hostage there. I'm being a bit facetious.

The verse struck me because in many English versions we translate that famous verse "Seek first the kingdom of God and His righteousness" which gives the verse a personalized moral call, but here is (and according to the Greek it could be) translated "Seek first the Kingdom of God and God's justice" very different ethical connotation. The alfambra, made of dyed sawdust simply says "Buscalo" or "Seek it!"

today's lesson: start with the pot

2008-02-29T21:08:00.000-08:00

Class today started with a two hour long lecture by someone from WOLA (Washington Office on Latin America) about the situation of violence, security, organized crime and impunity. A great way to start our class theme of the day: social, systemic and individual sin... right? I began the last half of our class with the women, by taking a glance at how the church has portrayed sin throughout its history- especially regarding women.

I left the last segment for the pot. I brought this broken pot to the class "Teologia Desde Las Mujeres" as a way to talk about, see, touch, and express the reality of sin as brokenness in our lives and in this culture.

I am in awe by what art and symbolism drew out of these women and helped us express to one another. I asked them to paint a picture of their own experiences of sin, how they have experienced brokenness, caused brokenness, or how they see it in the culture around them.
Each of them depicted vivid scenes of violence from their own lives, and then shared about them intimately. I was struck once again by the pervasiveness of violence in this culture and country. The violence was given names, faces, voices and stories today in these accounts of survival and solidarity.

In one class we moved from the systemic problems of organized crime in the country and problems of violence and impunity, to the stories of women who nearly added to those statistics. I praise God for their lives, their stories, and they're willingness to share as they move forward. In four months of class together they have never shared quite as personally as they did today. Was it the art... the Spirit of God... the image and symbolism of brokenness... some of all of the above? Nonetheless it was a powerful space for all. And I learned new lessons about teaching. Start with the pot.

mi familia Guatemalteca...

2008-02-29T16:33:00.000-08:00

Benjamine, Maribel, Dennis and Lucas... the four who have welcomed me into their home this year. I had the privilege of taking the 2007 Perez-Smith family photo. Benjamine (13) skates for the national team, so afternoons and weekends are filled with training and competitions. Maribel teaches everything from floral arrangement classes to Alternatives to Violence for women throughout Guatemala, is taking English classes, often serves as a translator in various capacities and the list goes on! Dennis is the director of communications at Cedepca where I have been working this year and is involved in multiple organizations throughout the community. Lucas (15) plays soccer and is an avid skate boarder, and is generally responsible for the family dog- Cookie.

life in a dry and weary land

2008-02-25T20:53:00.000-08:00

Reverse order... weekend before Poptun I was in Zacapa for the weekend- the most dry, hot, arid part of the country. The Lutheran church there is doing some great work to help begin small organic farms through irrigation, and teaching about the environmental impact of deforestation in the region.

I was able to interview students who are taking a class through CEDEPCA. This 13 year old is my youngest participant yet.

Poptun...

2008-02-25T19:43:00.000-08:00

I was welcomed into the home of Betty and Alvaro in Poptun this past weekend. They were unbelievably hospitable... here I am sipping coconut juice as I prepared for my classes this week. I tagged along with Veronica and Martin (a volunteer from Holland) who were teaching a class on the Old Testament for 15 students, mostly pastors, in the area. I had the privilege to interview them during the class, and to discover more about how theological education has been formative in their own lives, in their churches and in their community economically, ecologically, politically... They openly shared their lives and experiences. Alvaro and Betty were pastors of a congregation just outside of Guatemala City for the past 20 years and just moved to Poptun 2 years ago. Alvaro is the one who has asked CEDEPCA to come teach these classes and encouraged several local pastors to take advantage of this opportunity to expand their understanding of the scriptures. Several students expressed that these classes have changed their understanding of the role of women in scripture and the church today, the need for the church to think and act ecologically in their region, and other important realizations of personal and communal impact.

Pictured here is the group of 15 with Alvaro in the orange shirt and Betty in the maroon top. A few women joined the crew- none "pastoras"- but all interested in learning more which is encouraging.
The church celebrated Alvaro's 53rd birthday in a... unique way! They had a worship service Saturday night, the members came and lined up to present gifts of give hugs, cake and tamales were served to all, and after more music people slowly filtered out

The view overlooking Poptun with Martin and Alvaro.

We bathed in a cool spring our first morning there. It was a beautiful though "frio... rio" (pardon the bad joke) so refreshing to be in nature after months of city life!

meet my new friend...

2008-02-05T09:04:00.000-08:00

We walk every day for about an hour. We discuss faith, politics, ethics, religion and all sorts of ideas. She asks good questions... straight to the point and the heart of things. And we invite others along to enliven the discussion. Ok fine.... so it's Krista Tippet: Public Radio's Host for Speaking of Faith. I wish I could make it to this Princeton forum, but I'll settle for evening walks around the park. I highly recommend her podcasts to you all.

Trapachitos

2008-02-04T08:51:00.000-08:00

I was invited by Agros to return to the village of Trapachitos- the community in the Ixil (Ish-eel) triangle that I had visited on my previous two trips to Guatemala. I had come to know the stories and love people of this small village in the North Eastarn part of Guatemala. This area was one of the hardest hit by massacres and brutality during the civil war, and reminders can be found in churches, villages and on the faces of those who have lived to tell about it. It also remains one of the poorest regions in all of Guatemala. Though Trapachitos now has a road that connects it to Nebaj and aids in commerce, and the children are learning both Spanish and Ixil in school, they still have no electricity, no clean water, and most women are illiterate and do not speak Spanish.

This church in Nebaj, like many others in the region, has hung crosses with the names of dates of those killed during the war, several whom were massacared in the central square just outside.

I tagged along with a group of Engineers through EMI (Engineering Ministries International) who were helping Agros to plan for the building of a new community center for the region. Pictured here is the workshop where several youth will be trained in carpentry as they help build the center, which will host several other kinds of classes for local communities. I was impressed as always by the holistic and sustainable vision of Agros as they equip the indigenous people to develope their own communities sustainably.

Here is a view of Trapachitos from across the valley. The bare spot on the hillside is where they have dug out a soccer field: the center of evening activities. This photo does not do justice to the beauty of the land in this region!

I arrived just as the sun was beginning to set: this is a view from the lower part of the village where the road enters.

These little girls had been born since I had been there last (5 years ago), but the two on the left are new additions to a family I had grown especially close to. Their older brothers Mateo and Samuel were quite memorable and friendly, and their mother Ellena has an incredible story of survival during the war. Her family members were all killed when she was six, and she learned to survive as an orphan for several years. Later she again had to go into hidding in the forests for years at a time to escape from the military. She now has six little ones running around- Juana the oldest is going to school and helping to make traditional fabrics to be sold in local markets, and Samuel and Mateo go to school and help out on the farm.

Coffee is one of the main export crops for Trapachitos, most of the other crops grown here are used for subsistence. Here you can see coffee beans that have been harvested laying out to dry. The beans will be packaged and exported in this form to be roasted elsewhere.

According to the UN Food and Agricultural Organization, undernourishment afected 22% of the population in 2004. According to a National survey 49% of children under five suffer chronic malnourishment (for indigenous children the rate increases to 69%)

I arrived unannounced, and Jacinta immediately welcomed me into her kitchen, pulled up a seat, and poured me a cup of the best coffee I've had this year! As we caught up on her family, her kids, her travels to "the city" (the captial) the paradoxes and connections grew thick. Her two oldest sons have immigrated to the U.S.- where?- to DC where they are likely working in the service industry making 5-10x more at miniumum wage than they could here in Guatemala. I didn't share that my fiance also happens to be in DC... but attending classes at a theological seminary, and working on Capitol Hill. From one rural hill in the mountains of Guatemala, we spoke and thought of loved ones on quite a different "hill" with quite disparate access to electricity among other forms of power.

This community brings life and faces to several satistics recently assembled in a publication by Dennis Smith at CEDEPCA. (Click here for more info: Guatemala in Context

I'll share a few stats. for those interested:

The five most common causes of death in Guatemala are:

1. Pneumonia.

2. Infectious Intestinal Diseases

3. Homicide, accidents and self-infliced wounds

4. Birth-related mortality (45% of births attended by midwives, 37% by a doctor, 4% by a nurse)

5. Heart related disease

Literacy: 53% of indigenous Guatemalans are literate compared to 82% of Ladinos (Spanish Indigenous mix). Indigenous persons age 15-31 have completed 3.5 years of schooling; Ladinos in the same age group have completed 6.6 years of schooling.

Income: 13% of Guatemalans lived in extreme poverty (less than $1 a day) 31.9% live in poverty (less than $2 a day). In 2000: 74% of the indigenous populations lived in poverty (having dropped 14% from 88% in 1989); 38% of the Ladino population lived in poverty (having dropped 25% since 1989).

For all sorts of other information on Guatemala from historal overview, to religion, to politics and economics... click this link. Guatemala in Context.

These three little girls followed me all around the village giggling the whole way. They'd run a head a then turn suddenly to make sure I was still following.

Four months to go...

2008-01-23T19:11:00.000-08:00

my first wedding...

2008-01-23T18:39:00.000-08:00

My first opportunity to photograph a wedding came from my trusting friends Charlene and Daniel who I lived with in Antigua. They were married this past weekend and ask if I would do their photography. I was thrilled... and then a bit nervous as the time grew near. It's a lot of pressure to be the only photographer!

But the scenery and couple could not have been more beautiful, making my job quite easy! The wedding was out doors in the courtyard of a beautiful hotel in Antigua, and the sun and shadows cooperated perfectly. Here are a few of my favorites.

I'm now wondering why I didn't plan a destination wedding for Antigua myself!?

The reception was at a beautiful hotel called Panza Verde.

Light shines in the darkness

2007-12-26T18:45:00.000-08:00

"What has come into being in him was life, and the life was the light of all people. The light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not overcome it."

John 1

At midnight on Christmas Eve here, the sky explodes with fireworks that put our 4th of July displays to shame! Travis and I received a call from Edgar, the man who I call for taxi rides, inviting us to come enjoy Christmas Eve dinner with his family. He invited us into what he called his "simple home" where we held his first grandson of 9 days, talked with aunts, uncles, sons, daughter in laws, nieces and nephews, ate a delicious and generous meal, and then waited for midnight. The display was really amazing: we couldn't decide which direction to face because there were explosions 360 degrees around us, so we just kept spinning. I was thinking about the economic implications. We were in a poorer area of town, and here were hundreds... thousands of Quetzals exploding in the sky. But the night sky lit up like day did remind me that at Christmas we celebrate that life has come into the world- life that is the light of all people, light that overcomes darkness, even the darkness of violence, war, destruction, sickness, loneliness... A sign of hope in a dark place. Edgar's family told us that people used to have parties on Christmas Eve and everyone would weave in and out of one anothers' homes, but that it's not safe any more so everyone just stays inside. The fireworks brought everyone to the street for a half hour that night- the streets and rooftops were filled with spectators cranking their necks to see the light overcoming the darkness.

Travis and I enjoyed a mellow Christmas here.
We did decide to cook an "American traditional" meal, Stovetop stuffing and all!

Yes... it's true

2007-12-21T10:04:00.000-08:00

I took advantage of an opportunity to go spend a week with Travis in Princeton. It turned out to be a bit more than a week- fever, hospital visit and antibiotics postponing the return... I'm now back in Guatemala. It was delightful to see Travis of course, spend time with friends in Princeton, and catch the end of fall...

But it was bizarre to be in a place that was so familiar and yet alien at the same time. I had the surprising sensation of returning "home" to Guatemala. I touched down and (using my cell phone that only works here) called Edgar to have him come pick me up. "Como estas Edgar?"... "Siempre en la lucha" (always in the struggle or fight) came his familiar response. Edgar drives a taxi as his source of income, and like many taxi drivers here, he relies on private calls and clients as it can be too dangerous to pick up just anyone on the street. And he is really always in the struggle. Asked if he ever takes a day off, or will enjoy Christmas with his family, he replied that he works every day and is available especially on holidays to drive people around. His income is often the sole income for his family of five which includes his wife, two grown sons and a daughter in law. His wife and two sons all have Epilepsy and are on daily medication. These expenses among other daily necessities require that he work whenever he has the chance. As we passed a huge fake Chistmas tree downtown with a "Gallo" sign on top, (Gallo is the local beer) I laughed and commented on the irony. Edgar was quick to join the critique. He said his mom always told him growing up that Christmas was not a celebration of "tree day" and that Jesus and Mary did not have new clothes or toys to celebrate his birth... the shephards just showed up to honor him. That's how he and his family celebrate now. The noise, pollution, chicken buses, honks, 75 degree weather with the windows down were all familarly welcoming as we bobbed and wove our way through the traffic. Simple reminders of the ordinariness and complete extraordinariness of this season. And the point of it all... to simply honor, recognize, bow at the mystery of a God who would become... did become flesh! God embodied: Astonishing!

Edgar and I are going to pick up Travis today. Though I'm sad to not be "Home home" for the holidays, I'm thankful to feel at home here and have Travis with me for our first joint Christmas celebration.

Friends in low places

2007-12-21T09:42:00.000-08:00

It's been a while since I've written... visitors, travels and two antibiotics later I'm back!
Lindsay (one my three dear roommates from Princeton) headed South to escape the Seattle winter, and experience Guatemala. I had my first chicken bus adventure with her- (knees to her chest for literally three hours, she was a trooper and welcomed several strangers to share what we thought was a Two person bus seat). We enjoyed time at Lake Atitlan, Antigua, and Guatemala city in her quick trip.

We caught this beautiful sunset over La Merced church in Antigua.

Waiting for the "lancha" at Lago Atitlan.

The hills were pink with this blooming plant. I never discovered the name, but it was beautiful! This photo was taken on a hike to the near by village of Santa Cruz.

Las Mujeres

2007-11-21T12:56:00.000-08:00

Washington Office on Latin America (http://www.wola.org/) reports that "since 2001, thousands of young women and girls have been killed in Guatemala in an epidemic of unsolved murders. According to police statistics, the number of women slain has risen steadily from 383 in 2003, to 531 in 2004, to 665 in 2005. While there is debate over the final numbers for 2006, estimates place the number around 589. So far (as of Aug. 17) this year, more than 250 cases have been reported. The majority of the victims were young, poor women under the age of 40. Many were students, housewives, factory workers, domestic employees, or workers in the informal sector; some of the victims were professionals." (This clipping is from a different Guatemalan Newspaper)

Clearly, there was need to gather yesterday for the International Day against Violence toward Women. CEDEPCA (where I am currently teaching "Theologia desde Las Mujeres") hosted a celebration for which women arrived from all over Guatemala. They talked with one another and heard a speaker on the theme.

Violence against women takes many forms: physical, economic, social, political, legal- but really all are very interrelated in a system, society, and culture of violence toward women that has deep roots in the history of this country (and world more broadly, but we'll save that for another day).

Last week I asked the women in the class a question about what their communities are like today, and what they hoped their communities would one day be. The women told stories for over an hour and would have likely continued all day: one story after another of the violence, drugs, murders, and threats in their neighborhoods- their cousin, their niece, their daughter... and most of them have their own personal stories to share. Nearly every woman I talk to here tells me of an alcoholic father, or abusive husband--doesn't know their father, or would rather not--the tragic implications of a machismo culture cultivated by a colonial past and more recently a 40 year civil war. I do not presume to have any easy answers, rather I admit that there are none, but I do know impunity is a huge problem here- rule of law. One sign of hope is that the congress here just approved the presense of the International Commission to Combat Impunity in Guatemala (CICIG). For my part, I also believe the headline of the article above "When a study changes one's life" and hope that in some way the class with these women offers space for reflection, thinking, healing, discovery, and knowledge that is transformational in their lives and thier communities.

I pray that we together would growth in faith and hope that God is active here and that we are participants in that activity- that faith rather than fear would re-shape these communities.

Signs of Hope

2007-11-19T13:45:00.000-08:00

She asked me to take her picture, suddenly became shy and then was off to play hide and seek with her friends. Children playing in this park are one simple sign of peace and hope in a city plagued by violence: I look forward to the day that this safety exists without security guards standing by with guns.

Family shades themselves from the intensity of the sun.

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Father and son stroll hand in hand.

Hideandseek is a constant favorite here!

Flying men and women...

2007-11-12T14:36:00.000-08:00

We had the joy of trying to explain parachuters to a two year old!

Cultural billboards

2007-11-12T10:27:00.000-08:00

These "kites" made of paper with bamboo frames are made for Dia de los Santos celebrations throughout Guatemala and were brought to this park near my house for a nation wide competition and festival on Sunday.

The patterns are intricate & beautiful! A magnificent view of Volcan Agua from the park.
"Fraternal equality and respect is the basis of cultural development, by the power of our people united among brothers and sisters, to fight to keep our customs and traditions alive."
Take-down: we arrived at the tail end of the festivities.
Several kites were made by groups of youth and had strong messages about violence against women, the value of Mayan culture & work of all forms. This one says "Violence against women grows greater each day, and we the youth, raise our voices to say that we've had enough of the violence, because to respect life is weave peace."

"Let us not lose our tradition and culture."

"We value the work of women" and "We care for nature as water does"
I went with Alejandro, Maria and Kalla, my friends from language school in Antigua who are also living in the city now. I enjoy all of them and their companionship very much!

Here's a squinting self-take to prove that I really am the one behind the camera- taking all these photos :).

Felize Cumpleanos...

2007-11-11T17:46:00.000-08:00

I opted out of the race cars, but joined in for the miniature golf. Lucas, the older of the two brothers I live with, turned 15 in September, but we just celebrated his birthday this past weekend.

Lucas (in front) and Benjamin raced around the track for an hour, and the the whole family played mini-golf.

I won't say who won... :). This family has been wonderful to welcome me into their home and their life as one of the family. This was the never ending hole- there's always one!

November Sunsets

2007-11-04T17:54:00.000-08:00

"Los cielos cuentan la gloria de Dios"

Salmos 19

The sunset tonight was gorgeous! An added grace to a beautiful day!

Hard Hand or The Other Hand...Re-election day.

2007-11-04T08:06:00.000-08:00

Today is Election- or rather "Re-election" day. It's a runoff from the September elections in which two candidates (Perez and Colom) were the top two candidates. Most of the people I have talked to here are fairly ambivalent about the elections because they think both leaders are fairly corrupt and ineffective. I know several who are going to annul their votes, but others seem think that Colom will be somewhat better, and less violent that Perez. Perez is from the "Mano Duro" (hard hand) party which promises to rid Guatemala of gang violence "by force". That's a difficult task in a country where the government, military, police force and gangs are all intricately intertwined with the drug trade and other economic interests, and could lead to a blood bath akin to those Guatemala has seen several times throughout it's history.

Colom on the other hand, of the UNE doesn't promise much of anything- expect tag lines like the one here "You're hope is my promise." He does not indicate exactly who's hopes he intends to assure, or how he will achieve them. So we'll see what happens. These signs (that are now hanging on my bathroom door) are strung on literally every walkway, overpass, street sign, light post and really any other "adherable" object. It's quite the campaign strategy!

Dia de los Santos

2007-11-01T10:36:00.000-07:00

Hoy es el Dia de los Santos aqui. One of my students invited me to come have lunch with his family today, and eat a traditional meal called "fieambre." Fieambre consists of about 16 different kinds of meat (likely from 16 different parts of the different animals :)) so I went knowing I just couldn't think about that. But it was really amazing! It consists of about every vegetable under the sun, a plethora of meat, and all sorts of additions... followed by a rich dessert! This is a picture of "fiembre colorado" made with beets in the mix. I had "fiembre blanco" with my familia. The photo above is the frame of a huge kite that they decorate here with thin paper to celebrate Dia de los Santos. It stems from a Mayan belief and tradition- they attach letters to their ancestors that they float to the sky on the strings of the kite. Mayan and Catholic traditions often bled seamlessly.

My barbed wire series :)

2007-10-29T13:39:00.000-07:00

I have become so accustomed to barbed wire... everywhere... that I no longer notice its pervasive presence.
This tiny string of barbed wire separates our portion of the roof from our neighbors roof.It is not so much effectual as symbolic.

Up on the roof...

2007-10-29T12:42:00.001-07:00

I love Latin roofs... an escapea view, a different vantage point, an opportunity to check on the neighbors...
a clothesline, a patio, ...un poco de todo! Our roof has a beautiful view of part of the city both during the day and at night.

Remnants of Antigua

2007-10-29T12:31:00.000-07:00

I found these photos from my last day in Antigua, as I was downloading more recent ones. Some are from the Market, and the others are from a little nursery/cafe near my house where I loved to go read, study, walk around. It was so peaceful! I have not found such a place here, but there is a park nearby where I walk or run everyday which is a haven in the midst of the city.

Hasta Deciembre...

2007-10-28T20:26:00.000-07:00

I dropped Travis off at the airport today and we said yet another good bye... until December. I don't recommend long distance engagement, but we are seeking redeemable qualities of this time apart.

Two for Two

2007-10-28T19:19:00.000-07:00

There have been no new blog entries this week due to Travis visiting... no time for blogging! To say that it was wonderful to have him here is an understatement. My family here loves him and the two boys (who both speak English really well) joined us for nightly boggle games :). Travis got to enjoy the "mundaness" of my life here (home to cedepca and back home daily) as well as the adventures of taking the bus for the first time in the city and driving adventures with Emily. Dennis (dad) is still in the U.S. and Mari (mom) cannot drive, so I drive the family everywhere whenever we go anywhere and have become somewhat of the taxi in residence!

We're two for two on bus "incidents." The first of two bus adventures happened on Friday. We went to a movie "A Good Woman" and were trying to return home before it grew dark, as the buses are not safe after dusk. Our number (203) pulled up, I pushed my way up the stairs thinking Travis was right behind me. But he was trying to pay the money collector, and couldn't climb on. The bus started moving with Travis holding my hand over the crowd of people between us, me unable to get off, and him running along side the moving bus! The bus was so packed that there were several men hanging on the outside of the bus with one foot on the open door. He yelled that he'd catch the next bus as he let go... and I could only think about the fact that Travis doesn't speak Spanish, had no idea where we were or where the house was, and didn't know the route or where to get off! So I got off at the right stop just as it was growing dark, and watched 5 or 6 buses (#203) pass by... and no Travis. Just as I was starting to worry, he walked up and explained that he had disembarked a couple of stops too soon, and had to walk a distance to find me.

The second incident happened on... well our second bus outing Saturday. We went to the center in Zone 1 to explore the central Market and Square. We hopped on what we thought was the right bus to return home, but discovered about 10 minutes later we were wrong. Here's Travis at the intersection of two bus stops where we finally got off to wait for another bus. I have decided that it is not whether or not you get lost that matters, it's whether or not you can find you way back from there. And we did! I'm a bit tentative to have my next bus adventure without him, but I'll venture to one of these days.

We spent much of the week studying (for my teaching, and for his classes) but did make it to the central market, movie theater/mall, out to dinner in Zone 10, and Zone 1. The restaurant in Zona 1 was a great little hole in the wall with graffiti all over the walls, plastic stools for seats, and old marked up wooden tables... but great food and atmosphere! No Salsa dancing this time though we tried... we'll have to find a place in December.

Travis dancing and doing jump and jacks in the living room so that Benjamine and I could play with the action settings on our cameras. What a sport!

Bags of herbs and spices at the central market... these are the only labeled ones I have seen. There are usually just bags of grains, spices and herbs the contents of which seem to be common knowledge.

Why only women?

2007-10-22T13:27:00.000-07:00

He's back! The poor guy had to transport his own wedding band to Guatemala (along with a long list of other requested items), for his fiance to put it on his finger. Travis has decided to wear his "engagement band" this year while we're apart. Neither of us really understand or support the tradition behind the woman being the only one to wear an engagement band as a sign of commitment before the wedding, so Travis is officially and publicly off the market! :)

We went to dinner at a great place in la Zona Viva, the first night he got in, and planned to go salsa dancing, but were too tired.

We are now having a thrilling day of studies. I need to prepare for my class on Wednesday (this week is "The Q Source" and "The Reign of God" in the gospel accounts)... and he has plenty of work on papers and such as this is technically his "reading week." It feels like the good 'ol days at Princeton!

'Tis a gift...

2007-10-15T20:02:00.000-07:00

'Tis the gift to be simple, 'tis the gift to be free,
'Tis the gift to come down where we ought to be,
And when we find ourselves in the place just right,
'Twill be in the valley of love and delight.
When true simplicity is gain'd,
To bow and to bend we shan't be asham'd,
To turn, turn will be our delight,
Till by turning, turning we come round right.

These lyrics came to mind today when I was offered lunch and later brought apples by the woman who cleans and makes coffee daily at the seminary (I can't remember her name suddenly!). Her generocity and thoughtfulness touched me.

Soy professora... (?!)

2007-10-15T19:14:00.000-07:00

Well... I found out a few key reasons why I am not registered for classes at CEDEPCA. I had understood that I was coming here in mid-October to begin a new semester or quarter of classes alongside other students at CEDEPCA. But, in fact, they are in the middle of a semester right now that will end Nov. 21st. So rather than taking classes this semester as I had expected... I'll be teaching one (or trying to)! When I arrived at CEDEPCA today Judith invited me into her office after a brief orientation of the school. She informed me that Veronica who has been teaching the New Testament class, has been very ill and in the hospital for a week or two now, and will not be able to return soon. She had discovered that I have a masters degree in theology (rather than bachelor) and asked me to begin teaching on Wednesday! I was then directed to the "Salon de professoras y professores" which I had seen earlier in passing, and showed me my own desk complete with a new notebook, teaching materials for the class, books, tape, stapler, sticky notes, a calculator... and all sorts of other "teaching materials" to ensure my success on Wednesday! I did explain that my Spanish is not up to par for teaching, (which she knew at that point) but she simply said she would accompany me on Wednesday to explain the situation to the students... assumedly before leaving me with them. :) So I have much reading to do between now and then... I'm off to brush up on the Synoptic Gospels.

Bien venidos a la capital!

2007-10-15T19:04:00.000-07:00

So I made it! Here a few shots of my new accomodations. Charlene and Daniel were wonderful to drop me off here yesterday (after seeing Born III in the mall here :)) and then I settled in with my new family.
I am living with Mari, Benjamine (13) y Lucas (15) and Denis who is in the U.S. right now and will return in a few weeks.
My room is really amazing- great bed, private bathroom, wireless, space for my truck load of books... more than I had hoped for really.
The family is wonderful, I was able to spend most of this morning talking with Mari before going to CEDEPCA. I still do not know how long I will stay here, but it's great for now.

Hablo Espanol!

2007-10-13T20:42:00.000-07:00

Friday was my last day of Spanish class, which is both exciting and terrifying! I now have to use, practice, and become more fluid with all the grammar and vocabulary that I "know" on paper. I will be living with a Spanish speaking family for a while in the city which should give me plenty of opportunities to practice, in addition to the classes and work I'll be doing. The picture to the left is my Spanish teacher, Marta Lidia and I, where we had breakfast together on my last morning. She was an excellent teacher, and wonderful companion to me throughout my month here. It's amazing how well you know someone after spening four hours with them each day in conversational langague lessons for over a month! She is intelligent, warm, fiesty, hurmorous and really just delightful to be with. I'll miss her. In fact, she one of my only friends here so far. Maria (my new Swedish friend) and I joked yesterday that we can call someone our friend if we 1) have their contact information 2) see them on a daily basis or 3) see them outside of language school more than once! So Maria and her husband Alejandro, are two of my new friends. They were at the language school with Travis and I our first week, and will be moving to Guatemala City as well to live and work there. I am thankful for new friends in this foreign land.

I had to take these pictures below because they are comical to me. First, because I trip and nearly fall almost daily on the streets here, but second, because I cannot imagine navigating Antigua in a wheelchair, or with a cane! These signs are imbedded in the pavement along the main avenue here with cracks through the sidewalks and cobbelstone streets!

No illusions here...

2007-10-13T20:20:00.000-07:00

No illusions here! My mom reminded me of the fact that none of us know what will happen tomorrow... I just happen to be more cognisant of that fact here. I am under no illusion that I know what tomorrow will bring. I plan to move to Guatemala City. I'll be living with Dennis Smith and his family in "Zona 7" which is just west of the city center. I do not know how many kids he has, how old there are, what my quarters will be like, or how long I'll be staying there. Nor do I know where CEDEPCA is in relation to where I'll be living, how I'll get there, when I'll start classes or any thing else really! For those of you who have been asking me these great questions- this is an update to let you know that I don't know! I'll keep you posted as soon as I'm able. In the mean time some "peaceful" photos at the request of my friend Daniel Esher.

Rainy Market Day

2007-10-11T22:21:00.001-07:00

I was exploring the online GRE sample tests recently, and ironically one of the reading comprehension passages was all about photography. It aptly described the dilemma I face here (and I suppose that all photographers encounter)- the dilemma of objectivity and subjectivity. I find myself wanting to wear a big sign around that proclaims “I am not just some tourist… I take pictures of everything and everyone in my own home town!” I know that would not change the common assumption held especially by the indigenous women here that tourists are making money off of the pictures they take, and the more ancient belief that pictures capture part of the soul. So I have to attempt to be discrete with my enormous Nikon when and if I decide to use it. I want to capture the beauty, the lifestyle, the patient and diligent labor, the rich culture... but not at the expense of offending or damaging.

The passage says, “Picture-taking is a technique both for annexing the objective work and for expressing the singular self. Photographs depict objective realities that already exist, though only the camera can disclose them. And they depict an individual photographer's temperament, discovering itself through the camera's cropping of reality. That is, photography has two antithetical ideals: in the first, photography is about the world, and the photographer is a mere observer who counts for little; but in the second, photography is the instrument of intrepid, questing subjectivity and the photographer is all.”

The author goes on to say, “These conflicting ideals arise from a fundamental uneasiness on the part of both photographers and viewers of photographs toward the aggressive component in "taking" a picture. Accordingly, the ideal of a photographer as observer is attractive because it implicitly denies that picture-taking is an aggressive act. The issue, of course, is not so clear-cut. What photographers do can not be characterized as simply predatory or as simply, and essentially, benevolent.”

Traditional fashion meets Global thrift store

2007-10-08T19:09:00.000-07:00

These "huipls," the traditional "shirts" (if you can call them that) are beautiful! They are actually quite expensive, as they each require much thread and months of work! Though most Mayan women and girls throughout Guatemala still wear them, fashion is quickly shifting toward modern trends not only because of the look, but because of economics. I went to the "Paca" here on Saturday and Sunday to find a belt, and some warm clothing for the coming months (I've discovered that it gets much cooler here than I expected). The Paca is a massive international thrift market. It's bizarre to be shopping in Guatemala and find an H&M shirt that was made in Cambodia, sold in the U.S. (possibly several times) and now on a rack in Antigua for 20Q (roughly $3 USD). Here are some shots of the contrast. (Note the baby sleeping happily as the mother works... most Mayan women here have several children to care for as they work).

wedding dress shopping...

2007-10-06T19:09:00.000-07:00

No- not for me. I'm living with a couple here in Antigua--Charlene and Daniel--who will be getting married in January. So I went wedding dress shopping with Charlene around town today. She found some great options actually- perhaps I should have waited to buy one! Between viewing dresses, I played with the tiaras they were selling.

proposal with a gun...

2007-10-06T18:46:00.000-07:00

In other news regarding friendly men with guns: I received my first Guatemalan marriage proposal today from one of the security guards in my neighborhood. I think he had seen Travis and I walk by several times when Travis was here... but it had been a while since he'd seen Travis... So he stopped me and asked what happened to my "novio" (boyfriend) and how long I would be here. I informed him that my "prometido" (fiance) is in the States and that I would be living in various places throughout the country until my wedding in May. Well, that did not stop him from proposing that we get married until I return to the US! He persistently asked for my phone number and email... but I refused, and wished him the best of luck finding a Guatemalan girl friend. :)

war and peace

2007-10-04T12:12:00.000-07:00

My poor Spanish teacher, Marta Lydia, kept giving me more paper towels as I cried during class yesterday. I have heard many personal stories about the civil war which raged here for most of the last half century. I have known several Mayans whose entire families and villages were brutally murdered by the military or guerrillas. But I was vividly reminded yesterday of both the reality and horrors of the war here and of its devastating impact on this country today. We watched "Las Cruzes," a film which told the story of one indigenous village and its struggle to survive an impending attack of the military. A few people escaped and survived the onslaught, but most were defenselessly, and brutally killed without cause: the elderly, children, men, and women alike. There was an interesting article in the NYT this past Sunday 9/30, "The Art of Political Murder" about a book written about Bishop Juan Gerardi Conedera. A quote: "Gerardi was murdered as he returned to his Guatemala City residence on April 26, 1998. Two days earlier he had released a four-volume report on the civil war that formally ended in 1996, after it had claimed some 200,000 lives over four decades. The indigenous Mayan population, which makes up about 40 percent of the people in Guatemala and a majority of which is poor, suffered most: villages were erased, while fear fed docility. The bishop’s commission nonetheless extracted chilling firsthand accounts of torture and massacres conducted by an army intent on ridding the country of left-wing guerrillas." The "peace treaty" was signed in 1996, but war still consumes this country. My teacher told me that many of the gangs that now threaten the streets of the capital, were formed by young soldiers and guerrillas who had no where to work after the war, or by their children who were orphaned during the war. Travis joked one day that he wouldn't know what to do when he went to withdraw money in the States without a youth with a big gun standing by for protection! But it's true... guns are common place here and oddly serve as a symbol of safety or war, security or danger... depending on who's carrying it. This friendly security man outside my bank gladly posed for a photo.

Happy Birthday Nernie!

2007-10-02T21:40:00.000-07:00

Happy Birthday Nernie! It was wonderful to talk with you today! (She will probably not be pleased when she discovers that I have put her photo here. However, today is her 89th birthday, which deserves a resounding "Happy Birthday" from Guatemala!) One of many things that amazes me about my grandmother is her youthful heart and incredible desire and devotion to learning... she's never stopped. She emails regularly, plays Internet games and of course she had been to see my blog! I appreciate her whimsical honesty, humor, affection, and strength. The reminder that she was raising a toddler and pregnant with her second as she waved her husband off to war, is humbling to me when I complain about a long distance engagement (with all the conveniences of modern technology!). I can only hope I am a "with it" and wonderful if I reach 89 as she is today! So I must take this opportunity to celebrate Nernie, as one of many amazing women in my life, for whom I am so grateful!

Piñatas and more...

2007-09-30T12:53:00.000-07:00

Our Spanish school took a little flied trip last Friday to a nearby town to celebrate "dia de los ninos" with the children in one of the schools there. We brought pinatas stuffed with candy (which I'm not sure their teeth needed, or their parents appreciated) but they seemed delighted of course! We played games with them for the entire morning, and I was reminded yet again of the amazing capacity children have to break down language and all sorts of other barriers with ease!

Traditional and modern styles blend here. A little girl peeks to see how much candy she has stashed down her shirt!

La Antigua- la bonita

2007-09-29T20:22:00.000-07:00

Some of my favorite pictures... sites... spots... in this colorful place!

This last photo is a shot of mi casa aqui. I live with a couple in a house here, and have the top level (a room, bathroom, and veranda) to myself. It's the lap of luxury for another two weeks!

Commerce:

2007-09-29T19:41:00.000-07:00

Any where and everywhere you go... somethings for sale. I suppose that's always true, but it seems to be more so here, or more in my face here. The tension of being an American, a Westerner, a tourist of sorts (or and least seen as one) is where and how to spend money... where is it hurtful, helpful, harmful?

Independence Day Festivities

2007-09-29T18:57:00.000-07:00

September 15th is Guatemala's Independence Day ("from Spain" my Spanish teacher was quick to add... "not from the rest of the West") It was right before the presidential elections here. I happened to catch this parade that passed through the central square, and took the opportunity for photographic exploration. I felt less like a tourist as all the Guatemalans were taking photos as well.

Hermano Pedro is represented above: He was a priest in Antigua during the 17th century, who is celebrated for his care for the poor and development of schools and hospitals here in the city. I happened to stay at "Hermano Pedro Hospital Privado" and am thankful for his legacy here!

Joining the world of Bloggers...

2007-09-29T01:35:00.000-07:00

Hello friends! I too... am joining the world of bloggers-but not really as a blogger. I'll keep you posted with photos, stories, and musings when I'm able, in an attempt to share some of what I am experiencing here in Guatemala this year.

Travis joined me for my first two and a half weeks in Guatemala. We traveled to the astonishingly beautiful "Lago Atitlan" and stayed at Casa Del Mundo for several days. We returned to Antigua for a week of "espanol" and salsa classes, and then took a week to relax and enjoy Antigua and some of the surrounding towns.

After Travis returned to the States for school, I discovered the power and potency of the bacteria here with a bacterial infection that landed me in the hospital for three days. I am feeling much better now and was able to return to language school this past week. I am more grateful than ever for the miracles of modern medicine, and am daily thankful for my health!

Other than that excitement, my transition into life here has been smooth and enjoyable. I live with a couple from the U.S. (so I don't get to practice Spanish as much as I would like to yet), but we do play Settlers of Catan almost nightly :), and I am enjoying their community here. I found a gourmet shop that sells such luxury items as Trader Joe's Yellow Curry sauce, and Ocean Spray Cranberry juice... So life... for now... feels fairly normal. That is--aside from the gated community I live in, the security whistles that blow all night, the self (and culture) imposed curfew of 6pm, rooster crows, diesel fumes, and a long distance engagement--life feels normal.

I am continually thankful for the opportunity to be here, to learn and to grow in this place and time... and for all that lies ahead. Join me on the journey whenever you're able!